Still Rethinking My Inglenook

In 2022, I began playing around with an N scale micro layout using the traditional Inglenook track plan:

The original Inglenook idea, which has apparently existed since the 1930s, is a self-contained layout that's used to run switching puzzles. Over time, as I kept playing around with the idea, I began to think about it in the context of newer modular ideas like T-TRAK. I eventually shimmed the layout up enough to match the T-TRAK baseboard height and spliced a Unitrack interface into the Inglenook tail track so that the Inglenook could be interfaced with a T-TRAK module.

Hybrid Module

This module started out as a half-depth, single-wide T-TRAK module. I'd seen here and there that people were successfully making T-TRAK modules from corrugated cardboard, and I decided to experiment with this. But after I started, I learned about Pocket Size Modules, and I realized that this standard, which involves single track, was probably a better choice. I trimmed down the base so that the deck is 25 mm (roughly 1") high, so it will link with Pocket Size or Micro Diorama N modules.

I generally followed current practice in building up the scenery with a lattice of corrugated cardboard strips. I used tunnel portals I had on hand, as well as a piece of Woodland Scenics Ready Rocks. Instead of plaster cloth, I used Woodland Scenics Shaper Sheet.

I added a preliminary layer of Sculptamold.

Then, inspired by videos of people building Micro Diorama Modules, I decided to use modeling clay to build up the final landforms. I used Crayola Model Magic, which is fairly inexpensive and available at Hobbyh Lobby or Michaels.

This cracked as it dried. I filled the cracks in with more modeling clay.

The ground cover is ordinary dirt held in place with Elmer's Glue and sprayed with water from a garden sprayer. I followed this up with Woodland Scenics Burnt Grass fine turf.

I still have to add trees and foliage.

The Pabco Water Tank

A little over a month ago, I posted on my renewewd project to model the Pabco Paper plant in Vernon, CA, this time as a series of pocket size modules (the Facebook group for this idea is here). The next step would be to build a module that incorporates the water tank:

I found a satellite view of the segment of the plant I'm modeling:

So this module will represent a raised concrete platform with the water tank off center. The photos show the rest of the platform is occupied by what look like electrical transformers. This is how it's come out so far:

Aftter looking at both the Walthers and Woodland Scenics N water tanks, I decided the Woodland Scenics was closest. I sprayed it with Tru Color Grime, which seems to be a close cousin of the old Floquil Grimy Black. I also found some 3D printed N scale transformers on eBay. I'm going to continue to add small details as I run across them. Below is how the assembled modules look now:

Back To My Inglenook Test Bed

It looks like I first documented an Inglenook style micro layout here back in March, 2021. This has been through many changes as I've continued to pursue an N sideline. About a year ago, I shimmed it up to match T-TRAK module height and installed a Kato Unijoiner interface to allow me to run equipment from T-TRAK coompatible modules onto it.

However, I never added much scenery; in this case, just a Custom Z scales printed card building kit.

Over the past week, after I discovered micro diorama modules, I lowered the shim so I could use it with these. The scenery on these intrigued me enough that I started to add scenery to one end of the Inglenook:

Although the scenery on the micro diorama modules was modeling clay, I used some leftover Sculptamold mixed with texture paint to build up a small hill. I had a box of Woodland Scenics Ready Rock Surface Rocks, and I used a good-size one to add some interest to the hill:

I covered the area of the hill that wasn't covered by the Ready Rock with Elmer's Glue. Then I sprinkled on some generic dirt I picked up on a railfan trip, followed by Woodland Scenics Burnt Grass extra fine turf, and then I used a garden sprayer to soak everything with water.

I still need to add trees and brush.

I posted briefly about this on the Micro Diorama Modules Facrbook group. Apparently the idea of connecting a micro diorama module to an Inglenook via a Unijoiner interface was something they couldn't handle -- they deleted the post and gave me a Facebook warning. I decided this was too close to a dysfunctional HOA and left the group -- I'm sure they were happy to see me go.

Programming An Atlas Gold N SP SD9E

Atlas has been re-releasing older N models with ESU LokSound 5 in its Gold series. ESU LokSound is a good product, but ESU's own documentation is hard to work with, while Atlas provides no documentation at all with this loco, ESU or otherwise. This is different from Walthers, which at least provides basic documentation for rhe ESU CVs in its Mainline and Proto sound equipped locos.

The detail on the Atlas body is generic. The model is well painted for the late SP gray and scarlet scheme, but the number, 4355, makes it an SD9E. These were rebuilt by SP beginning in the mid-1970s, with small details, including air filters, revised light packages, and a hump in the hood behind the cab, that varied depending on when the loco came out of the shop as well as later modifications. Because the Atlas model is older, "generic" tooling, it doesn't have any specific SD9E details other than the number and the assignment to Eugene stenciled on the cab.

This is acceptable given the model's price, which would be considerably higfher if, like Broadway Limited or Scale Trains, it had road-specific details. In this, it's comparable to the old HO Athearn bluebox SD9, which despite its wide hood continues to be an acceptable layout-quality model.

ESU and Atlas provide the loco with certain CVs preset that diverge from other manufacturers. In particular, the engine startup-shutdown is F8, unlike the F9 other manufacturers use. F9, on the other hand, is "drive hold", a feature unique to ESU. If you press F9 by mistake expecting to startup the sound, this can leave the loco stuck in not moving until you think to press F9 again, which is confusing.

ESU also sets default values to CV3 and CV4, acceleration and deceleration, unlike other suppliers. This can make MUing other manufacturers' locos difficult, and as a longtime DC user bvefore I went to DCC, I like the feel of immediate throttle response. I set CV3 and CV4 to 0.

ESU has another unique feature, prime mover delay, which delays acceleration while the diesel engine sound spools up. Again, this makes it difficult to MU an ESU equipped loco with one from other DCC suppliers, and I find the delay in throttle reponse annoying. To get rid of this, I set CV 124 to 16.

Finally, I tested the horn using F2. It is factory set for a single-tone blat. Atlas doesn't provide documentation for other options, but browsing the web, I found that if you e-mail support, they can send you a list of their CVs for the SD7/9 model. I did this and got a list within an hour or so. From their documentatoin:

CV163=0 Leslie A-125
CV163=1 Leslie A-200
CV163=2 Leslie S-2M
CV163=3 Leslie S-3K
CV163=4 Leslie S-3L
CV163=5 Leslie S-5T
CV163=6 Nathan M3RT1
CV163=7 Nathan M3H
CV163=8 Nathan M5
CV163=9 Nathan P5 (Old Cast)
CV163=10 Nathan P5R24
CV163=11 Nathan P3
CV163=12 Nathan P3-R4
CV163=13 Nathan P5A
CV163=14 Wabco E-2

SP used Nathan P3s, so I set CV163=11. This worked fine, and the P3 sound is great. Unfortunately, the "generic" horn detail on the body is maybe a Wabco E-2 "blat" horn. There used to be SP style aftermarket N details available, but I think they're much harder to find these days.

Back To My Low-Relief Pabco Paper Building

Back in 2021, I posted on my efforts to make something work with a low-relief, reduced scale, selectively-compressed representation of the enromous Pabco Paper facility in Vernon, CA:

The effort in that post was my second; I had originally intended it to go against a backdrop on my HO layout, but I wound up not liking it there. Then I tried it on an N scale switching layout, thinking its reduced scale made it closer to N anyhow, but I didan't like it there, either. Eventually I deconstructed it into separate buildings, still not sure of where to do with it, and I was close to throwing everything out.

Then a few weeks ago, I discovered Kato mini diorama modules and the related and compatible pocket size modules, and after a little cogitation, I decided to turn the deconsctructed buildings into individual double-width pocket size modules, which are compatible with Kato mini diorama modules.

What I like about this approach, in addition to the reduced size, which seems closer to N scale, is that the length of the scene is adjustable, and the whole layout configuration that it goes with is also completely adjustable. The single track on the modules can be either a main line or a siding.

Also, one issue on which I had been stumped was how to incorporate the water tower that's between the two buildings on the prototype:

I didn't think a water tower cut in half was going to work as a background flat. But now I realized that I can simply build a 4-7/8" wide pocket size module that's deeper than usual and then just mount the wster tower on it and hook it up between the other buildings or not as I please.

A Few Mini Diorama Modules

I've started building some mini diorama modules to see how the idea works out. The first thing I needed to do was figure out how to add a power feed, because I have several different controllers, both DC and DCC. Because the concept is based on Kato architecture, most people seem to use Kato track feeders connected to the Kato power pack with standard Kato plugs. However, I don't have a Kato power pack and prefer to use standard terminal barrier blocks with spade terminal connectors that can be used with any conroller.

Here is a Klawndyke strtaight module modified to incorporate a 2-position terminal block.

The straight module in the photos below is this terminal module with scenery added.

Below is a curved module with scenery to represent an oil field. It uses inexpensive 3D printed details from eBay.

A commenter to last week's post said that modules that have scenery but leave the module base visible create a distraction. I did these modules before that comment, and my view is that it's just easier to put the clay all the way down to the base. I sort of like the hidden base better.